The winds of change are blowing through the valley town of Le Brassus, Switzerland, home of luxury watch manufacturer Audemars Piguet. The brand has just unveiled its latest horological creation: the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in sand gold. This innovative new reference (26735SG) brings together advanced materials and cutting-edge mechanics for a contemporary twist on a classic design.
As its name suggests, the 41mm watch case and integrated bracelet are crafted from 18-carat sand gold, a bespoke gold alloy that Audemars Piguet has developed specifically for this release. The unique composition of gold, copper and palladium results in a distinctive sandy hue that shifts between white and pink gold depending on the lighting conditions. The Manufacture’s watchmakers chose to complement the precious case with a skeletonized dial showcasing the openworked Calibre 2972, offering multi-dimensional views of the flying tourbillon and gear train.
Audemars Piguet then took things a step further by galvanically treating the sand-gold bridges and mainplate to match the tone of the case. The effect provides a subtle but notable color contrast against the rhodium-finished key movement components. Other finishing techniques like hand-angling, polishing and engraving serve to accentuate the three-dimensional architecture and refinement. The end result is a harmonious blend of matte and shiny surfaces with plenty of negative space for light to permeate.
From an engineering perspective, Calibre 2972 represents a technical tour de force. The self-winding movement drives hours, minutes and the 60-second flying tourbillon regulated at 3Hz. Despite the open dial, it still boasts a 65-hour power reserve. Not an easy feat for such a skeletonized caliber. The watch crystal is printed with the AP logo and name in black to avoid obstructing the multi-level views into the movement.
For Audemars Piguet and its legion of loyal fans, the Royal Oak collection has become an icon of avant-garde sports luxury in the watch world. First introduced in 1972, the Gerald Genta-designed octagonal shape and exposed screws broke all the rules but still caught the zeitgeist. The Manufacture has continually reinvented it over decades without losing sight of those genre-defining codes of design.
In that sense, the reference 26735SG is the latest milestone, harnessing novel materials and technology to create something familiar yet forward-facing. The interplay of sand gold’s evolving patina against the openworked manufacture movement ushers in a new era for this watchmaking legend. One where the sands of time take on a more artful dimension.