The Spring 2017 collection from Givenchy is nothing if not daring. At its Paris debut, models with plastered Alfalfa hair and heavy ear gauges showed off a busy bevy of outfits that were equal parts Egyptologist chic and grown-up mall goth. The major color swatches for Riccardo Tisci’s 2017 designs were the classic black and white interjected with sandy hues and olive greens.

The green bits of the collection were mainly a mash-up of military and currency-inspired patterns with Eye of Providence patches cropping up throughout, giving the collection a conspiratorial air.

Canted front zippers, leather bucket hats, chainmail, contrast collars and this year’s requisite checkerboard pattern bridged the divide between post-apocalyptic fashion fare and the look of Britain’s rude boys.

Women’s eveningwear featured black fringed tops, white tulle, monochromatic tie-shirt combinations, pleating everywhere and the occasional dollop of mirrored baubles embroidered on dark fabric.

Silhouettes were puffed up a bit in both portions of the show, with airy pants and draped fabric, and watch this year for the cobra-silhouette on men, created by pairing a bulky parka with conservative shorts.