Maria Grazia Chiuri may be heading to Dior soon, but for now, she’s still got her role as co-Creative Director at Valentino, alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli. The two were in Paris recently to show Valentino’s Spring 2017 Men’s Collection. A star-studded event, the show depicted a line of stripped down staples with a military tinge.

Drawing inspiration from the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibit, “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible,” Chiuri told the New York Times she and her partner were “thinking about the freeze point in the creative process,” the moment an artist steps back from their work, viewing it with either gratification or frustration.

“If you show all the parts of a process, you are communicating with the man who’s going to buy the clothes, then the conversation is not just about fashion, it’s about human process, the hand that made the garment, about culture,” Piccioli told The Times. Perhaps, then, it’s less a collection of “stripped down” menswear then one in which the process was truncated before completion—a purposely less photogenic result than the tasteful subtraction of, say, the Cubists.

That rawness is on display with the material choices—faded denim, flimsy knits and dense nylons that seemed at one point destined for life as an airplane tarp or parachute.

The collection also has something of an international air. A recurring jaguar print comes from a 1967 design by the company’s founder and namesake, Valentino Garavani, and gives the collection an Asiatic flair, while sandy-hued wool adorned with red patches gives a distinctly Eastern European vibe.